保莉·吉（Paulie Gee）Five Must-Eat Pizzas Across NYC

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

保罗·吉安诺（Paul Giannone），奇妙的痴迷，总是直言不讳保莉·吉（Paulie Gee）in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, makes one of the finest—if notthefinest—pizzas in the city. So when he buzzes you up and says, "Hey, I'm going on a tour of my favorite pizzerias in each borough, wanna come?" your answer is not, "Sounds fun, let me check my calendar," or "I don't know if I can keep up with you this time." Your answer is“我会违背物理定律，也许是我妻子与你同行的旨意 - 我们要离开？”

因此，几周前，我和我的妻子Adri加入了Paulie，他的妻子Mary Ann和他的两个儿子Michael和Derek以及Scott Wiener的斯科特的披萨之旅and Serious Eats Overlord埃德·莱文（Ed Levine）在为期一天的史诗般的披萨爬行，遍布所有五个行政区，在鲍里最喜欢的比萨店停下来。

Here's the recap.

Staten Island: Plain Pie From Joe & Pat's

瘦：Seriously skinny thin-crust pizza available by the slice at a walk-up counter, or served family style in the next-door dining room. The thinly-sauced, sparsely cheesed pies cook up fast, with pools of moist, lightly browned fresh mozzarella mottling their surface.

Paulie says:"I haven't been going to Joe & Pat's for very long—maybe three years—but I kept on hearing about it, so I checked it out, and it was love at first bite. There's something unique about it. The crust is thin and really crackly, the sauce is sweet and really bright, the pizza's not overloaded with cheese, and there's a good balance. You can eat a whole bunch of slices."

在我们的特别访问中，阿德里（Adri）成为经典的比萨店恶作剧之一的受害者。前一天晚上，有人小心翼翼地拧开了帽子上的红辣椒片，第二天早上为我们铺设了陷阱。在某个地方，一个史坦顿岛的孩子在嘲笑我们。

保利（Paulie）击倒了三个整片 - 大胆的举动是五场披萨之旅的第一回合。

布鲁克林：Totonno的红色派

瘦：The oldest pizzeria in Brooklyn has seen its share of ups and downs, with recent closings after an oven fire and flooding from Hurricane Sandy, but it's back and business and better than ever, churning out its signature fresh mozzarella-on-the-bottom, tomato-sauce-on-top charred coal oven pies. Some folks like the white pie, made with mozzarella, garlic, and Romano. Paulie goes for the red.

Paulie says:“在布鲁克林选择一个最喜欢的地方是一个艰难的电话，因为我喜欢很多。但是，当涉及到它时，Totonno是我最喜欢的煤炭烤箱的地方。我不知道这是Romano还是Muzz，但是，我没有从任何其他煤炭烤箱中得到的鲜味。

“直到我来到这里，披萨总是只有披萨。有一个纽约的切片和一个纽约广场，就是这样。Totonno's是我有我的大披萨顿悟的地方。我开始定期来，我会为整个馅饼订购一个馅饼我自己，每片吃大约2/3，然后将地壳带回家，第二天用一点黄油吃。

“我通常会得到红色的馅饼，但是我喜欢白派的东西是上面没有意大利乳清干酪。我回避了大多数白色的馅饼，因为他们找到了任何白色的成分。在这里，它们保持平衡。”

Check out that charred underbelly!

"Paulie, I don't think we need to order three whole pi..."啊，为时已晚。在抛光了普通的红派和白派之后，永远存在的地板经理Cookie Cimineri为我们提供了一个我们无法拒绝的报价：一半红色的半白色派和新鲜的罗勒。这是光荣的，尽管我们开始从早晨的大量饮食中感到痛苦。

皇后：新公园披萨的普通派

瘦：一个超级典型的纽约派，是周围最快的烘焙时间之一。您可以期望从击中盐散发烤箱甲板的时间（在地壳下的盐是他们的签名移动）到您手中的时间。这里的普通馅饼可能有点...软盘，因此，如果您非常喜欢披萨，请确保要做得好。

Paulie says:"This is just my favorite slice in the city. I knew about the place through its infamy, but I'd never gone until the late 80's/early 90's. Ever since then, I've loved it and if I'm driving on the Belt Parkway, you can bet my car is gonna pull over for a slice.

“这是典型的纽约片。它们可能是不一致的，而我们在那里的那一天，这只是谁在制作披萨的问题 - 有点沉重的奶酪。但是，当它很好时，它是最好的切片，这是最好的切片。城市。”

我们遇到了类似的一致性问题，如果您一直前往霍华德海滩（Howard Beach），这可能会很沮丧，但是当您在霍华德（Howard Beach）上击中它时，付款是巨大的。在这次特殊的访问中，厨师不仅忘记了为地壳的腹部加油，而且他的奶酪涂抹和分发也很宽松。披萨不是bad，但它并没有达到已知的高度。

The Bronx: Sausage Pie Louie & Ernie's

瘦：Louie＆Ernie的位于Throggs颈部住宅区拐角处的地下一楼的一楼，将重点放在经典风味而不是花式趋势的脆弱的馅饼上。香肠馅饼是用S＆D猪肉商店的新鲜香肠制成的，几个街区之外是披萨亚当·库班（Adam Kuban）曾经称为“令人难以忘怀的美味”。在馅饼中心，大量的黑胡椒粉使每个切片的尖端都有额外的风味。

What Paulie says:"I don't know much about pizza in the Bronx, but I've tried a few, and I'm pretty sure this one is the best. It's an old school place. I love that it's in a house, and not your typical pizzeria. The owner is there seven days and just can't let go. Those are my favorite kinds of places. It reminds me a little of John's: greasy, salty, and very flavorful. The sausage pie is the one to get, but the Sicilian is great, too."

我们在一个温暖的日子里打了一下，所以我们把比萨饼，几杯啤酒和狗带到了花园里的户外座位。哦，据记录，这是斯科特（Scott）崩溃并点啤酒而不是水的唯一一个且唯一的比萨店。明智的举动：生啤酒是您想要的。

My mother joined us for this leg of the tour, which was a good thing: the last slice probably would have gone unfinished if she hadn't. Even pizza gods like Paulie and Scott seem to have limits.

Square Slice From Prince Street Pizza

[照片：亚当·库班]

瘦：When Prince Street Pizza opened up in the former home of the one and only TRUE Original Ray's Pizza a couple years ago, it became an instant classic. It serves what are undoubtedly the best Sicilian square slices in the city, and the standard slices are nothing to scoff at either.

What Paulie says:“直到Prince Street出现之前，我从来没有在曼哈顿都有最喜欢的地方。酱汁和地壳的轻便是我的原因。它是一个厚的馅饼，但外壳仍然很轻。在重新加热上，它甚至很棒 - 尼斯（Nice）和酥脆。这几乎就像一个完全不同的切片。酱汁非常特别，您在那里得到很多。

“主人，我叫他星期五晚上弗兰基，因为他在星期五晚上开放。我每个星期五晚上在我开车回家时我要吃两片。这让我醒着。D在一周的每个晚上停下来。”

[照片：亚当·库班]

在曼哈顿的停车不是外部自治市镇的东西，因此我们不得不诉诸于一些车内饮食。它需要一些特殊的技巧来保留酱汁 - 应用酱汁超过奶酪 - 从您服用每个酥脆，枕头，橄榄油浸泡的叮咬时滴落。当您订购辛辣春天（我个人最喜欢的）时，甚至更加艰难，它覆盖着脆皮的小辣香肠的果汁薄片。

但是，无论如何，衬衫的污渍是披萨完美的小代价。

我们的编辑都独立选择了此处链接的所有产品。如我们的所述，我们可能会获得购买的佣金affiliate policy。